I just bought a 1995 DT200R - It sputters at low revs and doesn't pull at high revs like it should. Does anyone know the carb settings for this bike. Also I am looking for a repair manual......any ideas ???? I also have a rear brake that does not work well, you have to really push the brake pedal all the way to get any form of braking. The rear wheel won't lock. The pads are good, but it appears that the brake piston is not moving very much on application. I have bled the brake lines which made no difference.......any ideas ??? Thanks so much, ROB[/b]
Check out this guy: http://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI ... imsmustang He apparently is a DT200R guru and sells technical info on e-bay. The above link takes you to his profile on e-bay(UK). There is a link on that page to send him a message. If you are absolutely positive that you have no air bubbles in your back brakes, then you most likely have a bad o-ring seal in the master cylinder which does not allow you to put full pressure to the rear caliper. Before I took that apart, I'd be 100% sure that you don't have any air bubbles hiding in the system. Even a tiny one will rob pressure away from the pads as it compresses under load.
The Stock Carb numbers are MainJet #150 Air Screw .5 turns out Needle Jet P-2 Jet needle 5J10-4 Pilot jet #25 Power jet #65 Float Height 20-21mm Fuel level 2.5-4.5mm Engine idle speed 1300-1400 RPM Note: power jet is fixed type -Jet needle is on 4th clip down Take the Carb off and clean it all, make sure the jets and passages are clear using compressed air. CHECK the reed valve and or replace the reeds :!: Rear Brake: If the pedal is firm and the pads are not oil soaked say with wd-40 then see if you have pressure at the caliper by bleeding (open bleeder valve and see if it sqirts fluid) which I assume is good from what you have said. If you still have no braking but have pressure then take caliper apart and check for piston seizure (if fluid has never been changed and fluid is full of water things can corrode and seize)
